Smile lines, also called nasolabial folds, are one of the trickiest areas to cover with makeup. Professional makeup artist Charly Salvator has a one-product trick that visually smooths them in seconds: applying a liquid illuminator directly on the folds before foundation. The result is a plumper, more even complexion without heavy coverage.
Nasolabial folds have a way of catching foundation and turning a fresh base into something that looks cakey by midday. The more product you layer on, the more pronounced those creases appear. It's a frustrating cycle that many women know all too well, especially as skin matures.
But Charly Salvator, the professional makeup artist followed by 845,000 subscribers on Instagram, has a surprisingly simple answer. One product, applied before foundation, changes everything. And if you've been struggling with foundation formulas that emphasize wrinkles, this technique is worth understanding in detail.
The liquid illuminator trick that visually smooths smile lines
Salvator's method is straightforward, but the reasoning behind it matters. Before applying foundation, he recommends placing a liquid illuminator directly onto the smile lines, then applying foundation on top. The illuminator creates a subtle optical effect: it bounces light outward from the fold, making the crease appear shallower and the surrounding skin look more voluminous.
Why an illuminator and not a highlighter
This distinction is critical. Salvator is specific about the product type: an illuminator, not a highlighter. The difference lies in finish. A highlighter is very satiny, almost metallic, and would draw far too much attention to the fold rather than softening it. A liquid illuminator, by contrast, gives a diffused radiance that mimics the natural plumpness of younger skin. The effect is optical volume, not shimmer.
Less is more with foundation
Once the illuminator is in place, foundation goes on top, but sparingly. Salvator recommends using a maximum of half a pump of foundation, adding more only if truly necessary. Overloading the skin is the most common mistake. Too much product settles into folds and actually deepens the appearance of smile lines rather than hiding them. Textures that are fluid and lightweight work best, as they sit on top of the skin rather than sinking into fine lines.
Powder foundations are not recommended for mature skin. They tend to lodge in creases and accentuate nasolabial folds rather than concealing them. Stick to liquid or fluid formulas.
Harold James's retouching method for nasolabial folds
Harold James, global make-up artist for L'Oréal Paris, shared a complementary technique in September 2025, just days before the L'Oréal Paris runway show. His approach focuses on correction rather than prevention: after foundation is applied, he uses a cotton swab to remove excess product that has accumulated in the nasolabial folds, then gently taps the area with a finger to blend what remains.
This two-step retouching method addresses the inevitable settling that happens once foundation is on the skin. The cotton swab lifts the surplus without disturbing the surrounding coverage, and the finger tap redistributes the remaining product smoothly. Together, the two expert techniques, Salvator's pre-foundation illuminator and James's post-foundation retouching, cover the full application process from start to finish.
For anyone who also deals with dark circles or uneven skin tone, this layered, light-handed approach to base makeup applies across the face.
The Armani Beauty Luminous Silk reformulation and why it matters here
The context for Salvator's tip is the relaunch of the Armani Beauty Luminous Silk foundation, reformulated 25 years after its original creation. The new formula is built around three key active ingredients:
- Glycerin, for hydration
- Niacinamide, for a smoothing effect
- Mediterranean floral extracts, for radiance and evenness
The texture has been made more fluid and modulable, meaning it adapts to the skin rather than sitting on top of it. For mature skin in particular, this kind of formula behaves very differently from older, heavier foundations. It doesn't cling to texture or exaggerate fine lines, which makes it a logical pairing with Salvator's illuminator technique.
The reformulated Luminous Silk combines glycerin, niacinamide, and Mediterranean floral extracts in a fluid texture — making it one of the more compatible foundations for the illuminator-first technique on mature skin.
What makes a foundation "smile-line safe"
Not all foundations behave the same way around nasolabial folds. The key variables are texture and finish. Heavy, full-coverage formulas and powder-based products are the most likely to settle into creases. Fluid, skin-like formulas with a natural or satin finish stay more flexible on the skin throughout the day. This is why professionals consistently steer toward lightweight coverage for this specific concern, and why the Luminous Silk reformulation aligns with current expert recommendations.
- Liquid illuminator applied before foundation
- Half a pump of fluid foundation maximum
- Cotton swab to remove surplus product from folds
- Finger tapping to blend residual coverage
- Powder foundations on mature skin
- Satiny highlighters applied directly on folds
- Too much foundation layered over the area
A makeup routine built around mature skin
These techniques point to a broader shift in how professional makeup artists approach makeup on mature skin. The instinct to cover more, to add more product to problem areas, consistently backfires. The professionals who work with mature complexions every day, from Salvator's editorial work to James's runway preparation, all converge on the same principle: work with the skin's texture, not against it.
Smile lines respond to light. A well-placed liquid illuminator redirects that light, creating the visual impression of volume and smoothness without any filler or heavy concealment. Paired with a restrained hand on foundation, a fluid formula, and a quick cotton swab touch-up, the result is a base that looks genuinely fresh rather than layered. And for anyone curious about tackling the area around the mouth more broadly, pairing this technique with targeted anti-aging care for mouth wrinkles can reinforce the effect both with and without makeup.
